Campo at Los Poblanos

Los Poblanos is a 1930s ranch on twenty-five acres in the Rio Grande valley at Los Ranchos, just north of Albuquerque — an inn, an organic farm and the lavender fields that have become the property's signature. Campo is its restaurant, and it cooks from the farm.

That is the whole argument for the listing. This directory keeps finding that the best alcohol-free drinks come from kitchens with the deepest pantries rather than from bars with the cleverest bartenders, and a working organic farm is the deepest pantry available. The lavender lemonade is made with lavender grown in the fields you can see from the table; it is not a flavouring bought in a bottle. When the raw ingredients are that good, the absence of a spirit stops being the defining feature of the drink.

The Morning Remedy on the breakfast service is the other documented build, and breakfast is itself worth flagging. Campo serves 8am to 1pm Thursday through Sunday, and a genuinely good breakfast room is disproportionately valuable to readers of this site — it is a whole social occasion, with friends, that has never had anything to do with alcohol, and it is where a lot of people rebuild a social life after they stop drinking.

Visit Albuquerque records both drinks in its guide to mocktails in the city.

Dinner runs 5pm to 9pm seven nights a week. Booking is essential; Campo is one of the harder reservations in New Mexico and the property is a genuine destination rather than a neighbourhood restaurant. It is about six miles north of Old Town, in a valley of cottonwoods and irrigation ditches that feels a long way from the city.