Hearth '61

Hearth '61 is the flagship restaurant of Mountain Shadows, a mid-century resort in Paradise Valley that was rebuilt and reopened after decades of dereliction, and the room is designed around the view: floor-to-ceiling glass angled at Camelback Mountain, with the golf course in the middle distance. The kitchen cooks over an open hearth, which gives the menu its name and most of its character.

Resort restaurants are the hardest category in which to find a serious non-alcoholic drink. The economics push toward a house margarita and a soda gun, and the guest is assumed to be on holiday and therefore drinking. Hearth '61 does not follow that script. Its spirit-free list is built on named non-alcoholic spirits and reaches past the obvious one — alongside Seedlip Garden 108 it pours Pentire, a Cornish botanical distillate made with rock samphire and sea kelp that almost never appears on American menus. The Blueberry Basil Bliss works the Seedlip with lemon, blueberry and basil; the Pink Petal sets Pentire against grapefruit and hibiscus; the Berry-Berry-Berry Delightful is the sweeter of the three.

Stocking a second, less common NA spirit is the detail worth noticing, because it is not an accident. Seedlip is the bottle a bar buys when it wants to be able to say it has one; adding Pentire means someone tasted the category and made a choice about range. For a guest at the resort who is not drinking, that is the difference between three variations on the same base and an actual list. Practical notes: this is a resort restaurant with resort prices and a full bar, it is a drive from central Phoenix, and the view seats are worth requesting when booking. Sunset is the hour to aim for, when the light comes off the mountain face and the room earns the glass it was built behind.