Wooden City

Five is an unusual number of zero-proof drinks for a restaurant to print. Two is a gesture; five is a section, and it means the kitchen and bar have had to build, cost and train on each one. Wooden City, on Broad Street in downtown Chattanooga, carries five, which makes it the deepest restaurant list of its kind in the metro.

The standout is the Fizz. Berries, coconut cream, cinnamon, nutmeg and soda is an odd-looking specification until you understand the problem it is solving: alcohol carries weight, warmth and aromatic lift in a drink, and when you remove it what is left usually tastes thin and cold. Coconut cream restores the body, the baking spices supply the warmth that alcohol's burn would otherwise provide, and the soda keeps it from becoming a dessert. It is a genuinely well-engineered drink rather than a fruit juice with a garnish.

The restaurant around it is a wood-fired pizza and small-plates room, well regarded locally, and the format helps: shared plates and a long table are a much easier social setting for someone not drinking than a bar counter is, because the meal rather than the round sets the pace of the evening.

NOOGAtoday, the city's daily newsletter, picked the Fizz out specifically in its guide to non-alcoholic drinking in Chattanooga, which is the corroboration this listing rests on alongside the menu itself. The other four zero-proof drinks rotate and are not recorded here.

Dinner runs from 4:30pm every night of the week, to 9:30pm Sunday through Thursday and 10pm on Friday and Saturday. Happy hour is daily from 4pm to 5:30pm, which is a useful window if you want the room before it fills.