Fiorella (Polk Street)

Fiorella's Polk Street restaurant occupies a corner at Polk and Green, at the point where Polk Gulch runs into Russian Hill, and is the second of the four San Francisco locations opened by Boris Nemchenok and Brandon Gillis after the original on Clement Street in 2015. The format is the group's California-inflected Italian one: wood-fired pizza, house-made pasta, antipasti and a short list of mains, served in a bright corner dining room with a bar along one side. Dinner runs seven nights, to 10pm on Friday and Saturday, and lunch is added at weekends from 11:30am.

The alcohol-free provision is smaller here than at the group's Noe Valley and Sunset restaurants, but it is printed on the same beverage card as everything else and priced level with the cocktails. Like a Virgin is listed under the cocktail heading and marked N/A: prickly pear essence, fresh lime juice and sparkling water, served tall, at $14 — the same price as the house Negroni, the Passione Margarita and the espresso martini sitting above it on the page. The drink also appears on the Monday-to-Thursday happy hour menu at $8, next to the discounted spritz and margarita, which means the restaurant extends the same offer to guests who are not drinking as to those who are. On the beer list, Rationale's non-alcoholic West Coast IPA is stocked at $6, cheaper than every alcoholic beer and cider on the page. The rest of the non-alcoholic column runs to Ferrarelle sparkling water, Mexican-style sodas, a house lemonade, house iced tea, Mighty Leaf hot teas and Linea drip coffee with free refills. The offering is narrower than the group's Sunset and Noe Valley rooms, which each carry a second built N/A cocktail, so a guest who wants a bitter spritz rather than a long fruit drink is better served at those; what the Polk Street restaurant does have is a single properly made zero-proof cocktail available at every service, on the happy hour, and priced the same as everything else on the card.