Cholita Taqueria

Cholita sits at 1001 Broad Ripple Avenue, on the block where the neighbourhood's restaurant row meets its bar strip, and serves Los Angeles-style tacos and street food — the griddle-and-salsa end of Mexican cooking rather than the combination-plate end. It runs a Tacokase counter service alongside the main dining room and a separate cantina space, and it keeps genuinely long weekend hours, opening at 11am on Saturday and Sunday and running to 11pm on Friday and Saturday nights.

The non-alcoholic entry is the Fauxjito, and it is worth explaining why it counts. Broad Ripple is not a difficult place to find a virgin margarita; it is a difficult place to find one that is not a glass of sweetened lime cordial. Cholita builds its mojito on Seedlip Garden 108, the pea-and-garden-herb distillate from the London producer that effectively created the non-alcoholic spirits category, and the rosemary, thyme and spearmint in that base carry the herbal register that rum and muddled mint would otherwise have to supply between them. Indy Maven named it in its round-up of the city's best mocktails on that basis. It is one of four venues in this guide pouring Seedlip, alongside Sundry & Vice, 16-Bit and Union Jack Pub two doors down.

For planning purposes, this is a restaurant first: the bar is part of a dinner rather than a destination in itself, and the zero-proof list is one strong build rather than a printed section of the sort you get at The Fountain Room or The Inferno Room. But it is an easy, unfussy place to eat well without drinking in a neighbourhood that does not otherwise make that easy, and the kitchen opens at 4pm on weekdays and 11am at weekends. Reservations are taken and are worth having on a Friday or Saturday.