Fiorella (Noe Valley)

Fiorella's Noe Valley dining room is on 24th Street, the neighbourhood's main commercial strip, and is the fourth of the San Francisco restaurants opened by Boris Nemchenok and Brandon Gillis since they started the group on Clement Street in 2015. The menu is the group's California-inflected Italian one — wood-fired pizza, house-made pasta, antipasti — and the room does a substantial family trade, with dinner service every night from 5pm and an earlier 4:30pm start at weekends. A happy hour runs Monday to Thursday from 5pm to 6:30pm.

The non-alcoholic drinks are the reason the Noe Valley branch is worth singling out from its siblings. The printed cocktail list holds six drinks, and two of them carry the N/A marker, both at $14 against $14 to $15 for the alcoholic ones. The Noperol Spritz is the more constructed of the two: Giffard's non-alcoholic aperitivo is combined with Mionetto's alcohol-free aperitivo, non-alcoholic sparkling wine and seltzer, producing a bitter-orange spritz rather than a sweetened orange soda, and it is served in the same glassware as the Hugo and the Noe Valley Spritz beside it. Like a Virgin is the lighter option, built from prickly pear with fresh lime juice, seltzer and mint. The beer list carries Rationale's non-alcoholic West Coast IPA at $8, listed among the draught and bottle options rather than in a separate box, and the soft drinks run to a house lemonade, house iced tea, Mighty Leaf teas and Linea drip coffee. Having a third of the cocktail list built without alcohol, at price parity, puts this restaurant well ahead of the neighbourhood norm. Noe Valley has very little in the way of a bar scene and almost nothing built for people who are not drinking, so a restaurant that will put a proper bitter spritz in front of a guest without a conversation about it is worth knowing about. The happy hour, which discounts drinks between 5pm and 6:30pm from Monday to Thursday, applies to the same list.