The Charlotte

Zero-proof menus have a predictable shape: something with cucumber, something with ginger beer, something fruit-forward and long. The Charlotte's boxed Zero Proof section on Henderson Avenue is worth recording because it does the opposite — all four drinks are martini-format, served up, which is the hardest style to pull off without alcohol and the one non-drinkers most often miss.

The Dirty Martini is the proof of intent. Built on Ritual's gin alternative with olive juice and blue cheese-stuffed olives, it is savoury, cold and bracing in the way the original is, and it gives a non-drinker something to hold that reads as an adult drink at a glance. The Pornstar Martini uses vanilla, pineapple and passion fruit topped with non-alcoholic sparkling; an espresso martini and a pomegranate martini complete the set.

Two practical notes. The restaurant publishes no telephone number and no closing times — its own Instagram says it opens daily at 11am, which is all we can confirm, so check before a late visit. And for anyone arriving from a listicle: there is no non-alcoholic French 75 on the current menu, despite it being widely reported. The four martinis are what is actually served.