Estereo

Estereo opened on Milwaukee Avenue in Logan Square as an all-day bar from Heisler Hospitality, the group behind Pub Royale, Sportsman's Club and Queen Mary Tavern, with drinks originally developed by Ben Fasman and Michael Rubel. The design is deliberately transporting - tiled floors, patterned detailing, a large triangular bar, roll-up garage doors on two sides for summer - and the soundtrack comes off a turntable. The bar's reputation rests on its agave program, a spirits list that runs to well over a hundred mezcals, destilados and sotols priced by the ounce and organized by producer, and on the Breezy, a house highball of yerba mate, falernum, lime and soda served in a branded plastic cup.

What makes it useful to non-drinkers is that the Non-Alcoholic heading sits inside that same menu, between the wine list and the agave spirits, with drinks that get the same treatment as everything else. Two are house preparations: a tepache built from pineapple, black pepper, cloves and piloncillo, lengthened with Rare Tea Cellar's Mallorca melon tea at $8, and an agua fresca of Seedling Farms tart cherries and mint at $7. Two are mixed: the Rosemary Spritz, made with rosemary syrup, lime and Martini and Rossi Floreale at $12, and the Three Spirits Mule of ginger syrup, pina, lime, simple syrup and Three Spirits Nightcap, also $12. Packaged options include Lagunitas hop water and Athletic Brewing's Atletica, a Mexican-style non-alcoholic copper ale, and the house coffee cocktail - 4 Letter Word cold brew with house horchata - is listed with an NA version at $10. The bar closes at 2am seven days a week, so the zero-proof list is available for the whole of a real night out. Estereo has a second location in Fulton Market carrying the same non-alcoholic heading at slightly different prices - tepache at $10, the Rosemary Spritz at $13, the Three Spirits Mule at $13 - and adding a St Agrestis Phony Negroni at $12 to that list. Empanadas from Cafe Tola are the food offer at that site; the Logan Square room serves a light snack menu in the morning and nothing after dark.