Don Artemio Mexican Heritage

Don Artemio takes its name and its cooking from Coahuila, and it has become one of the most decorated Mexican restaurants in Fort Worth since opening on the West 7th corridor. Its bar programme is built around agave spirits, but the printed drink menu also carries a section headed "Zero Proof Cocktails" — a real menu heading rather than a substitution offered on request.

The four zero-proof drinks are all house builds finished with sparkling mineral water, and they follow the same flavour logic as the kitchen. Fresca is the vegetal one, combining cucumber, orange, lime and agave with a jalapeño edge. El Jarrito is the most interesting to order if you usually drink mezcal: grapefruit and lime against tamarind chipotle and guajillo, which delivers the smoke and heat that a non-drinker normally has to give up. La Chica Fresa pairs strawberry with jamaica — hibiscus, a staple of Mexican aguas frescas — and La Cariñosa is the simplest of the set, lemon and honey lengthened with mineral water.

Notably, none of these lean on non-alcoholic spirit substitutes. They are built from juice, syrup, chile and citrus, which is both cheaper to execute and, in this kitchen's hands, more authentically Mexican than a Seedlip pour would be. The room is a full-service restaurant with a complete bar, so a mixed table works comfortably: the zero-proof drinks arrive in the same glassware and at a similar pace as the cocktails.