Stillwell's

Hôtel Swexan opened in the Harwood District as one of the most deliberately theatrical hotels in Dallas, and Stillwell's is its steakhouse — a dark, clubby room where the wine list runs long and the cooking is built around dry-aged beef. It is exactly the kind of restaurant where not drinking has historically meant sparkling water for three hours, which is what makes its printed Non-Alcoholic section worth recording.

There are two builds, and both are constructed rather than poured. The Golden Pear uses Lyre's Classico, a non-alcoholic sparkling wine, with pear and lemon — a drink designed to hold its own against a steak course and to look right in the room. The Ginger Snap is the more technical of the pair: Seedlip Garden 108, the herbal expression of the British distillate, infused with rooibos and then lengthened with cinnamon, lime and ginger beer. Heineken 0.0 sits on the beer list for anyone who would rather keep it simple.

Two drinks is not a deep list, and we would rather say so than inflate it. But they are made with real non-alcoholic spirits, they appear in print under their own heading, and they are priced with the cocktails — in a hotel steakhouse, that combination is meaningfully better than the norm.